How to Handle Sagging Clerical Vestments

Welcome back to the OCC! We're diving into a topic today that resonates with many, brought to our attention through your insightful feedback.

Recently, two new members of our community highlighted a concern regarding the storage of liturgical vestments, particularly the issue of sagging linings. Drawing from their extensive experience, these Fathers shared their reservations about the traditional hanging method, which seems to lead to the unwanted deformation of vestments. Today, we're exploring what one Father has aptly termed an "eternal problem."

It's a familiar sight for many of us: over time, the linings of phelonia and sticharia develop a "bubble" along the bottom, eventually protruding in a rather unsightly manner from beneath the outer fabric. Less frequently, we might witness the outer fabric itself curling inwards.

I recall, from my days as an altar server, facing this very dilemma with my sticharion. What leads to this frustrating issue, and more importantly, how can we address it? To find solutions, we turned to the knowledgeable sisters who manage our monastery's sacristy and sewing workshop.

Washing: A Primary Culprit

The disparity between the outer fabric and lining in composition, yarn, and fabric structure means they respond differently to handling and cleaning. The necessity of washing vestments introduces the issue of shrinkage due to the fabrics' varying reactions.

This problem is particularly evident with altar servers' sticharia, which require more frequent washing. Typically, the outer fabric tends to shrink more, causing the lining to eventually extend beyond the fabric's edge. Conversely, the lining might contract, pulling the outer fabric inward.

Machine washing, including the spin cycle, often exacerbates fabric shrinkage. While handwashing several sticharia might be daunting, their eventual encounter with the washing machine—even on delicate settings—seems unavoidable. Fortunately, addressing a protruding lining isn't overly complicated, though phelonia, especially those of Greek design, demand handwashing to avoid damage (Russian phelonia unequivocally require handwashing).

Drying vestments by hanging them can also lead to deformation, particularly if the fabric remains heavily saturated. The vestry's lead sister Nun Agrippina advises drying in a horizontal position, ideally laid flat between two absorbent terry sheets to evenly remove moisture without distorting the fabric. At least, try to remove as much moisture as possible in a horizontal position before hanging an item to dry.

Choosing the Right Lining Fabric

Our monastery's recent experience indicates a significant reduction in this issue with newly crafted vestments over the last five years.

The sewing workshop credits this improvement to their shift towards using pure polyester for linings. Given that many modern church fabrics are synthetic, they exhibit similar behavior, mitigating previous problems. Natural, mixed, or dense fabrics are more prone to these issues and are now used only upon specific request.

Navigating Vertical Storage Challenges

The distinct behaviours of various fabrics under vertical storage conditions merit attention. Observations of a Lenten phelonion, aged about eight to ten years, reveal how the garment's weight can induce slight undulations along the sides beneath the shoulder brace. The soft, heavy lining follows suit, presenting waves and minor sagging near the outer fabric's edge, though without significant stretching. This phenomenon isn't isolated; given time and the inherent properties of certain lining materials, any phelonion might exhibit outward protrusion of the lining, exacerbated by the vertical storage method.

Objectively assessing the extent of fabric shrinkage or stretching would require comparing measurements from post-sewing to several years of use and maintenance. However, the practicality of such detailed monitoring is debatable, with few likely to undertake this task.

For those not plagued by excessive wrinkling or possessing the time for occasional ironing, a chest with spacious drawers represents an ideal storage solution. This option should be considered by those with the requisite space and means to acquire such furniture.

Yet, in parishes bustling with clergy and limited by space, avoiding vertical storage can prove challenging. Our monastery's experience underscores vertical storage as the sole viable method, with the primary concern still being fabric shrinkage from repeated washings.

Solutions for Vestment Lining Issues

Finding a solution to the problematic lining of liturgical vestments might require a bit of creativity and possibly some sewing expertise. If you're not confident in your sewing skills beyond attaching a button, seeking assistance from a skilled parishioner or a professional workshop might be your best bet. They can adjust the lining by trimming excess fabric and re-sewing the seams as needed.

For those willing to try a DIY fix, especially for simpler garments like a sticharion, here’s a method: create a fold approximately 10 centimeters above the bottom edge, secure it with pins (hand stitching is also an option), and then press it with an iron for a neater finish.

Try the vestment on to ensure the adjustment looks right, then permanently secure the adjustment. This can be done discreetly by hand-sewing within the fold, resulting in an internal "blind" pocket, or by machine, adjusting the seam for a cleaner finish.

Addressing a phelonion is trickier

The most inconspicuous adjustment spot is under the neck piece, though replicating the garment's contour through folding might not always work. Alternatively, adjusting the folds to an area typically concealed by the cassock could be viable. Another option involves securing the fold behind the outer galloon, demonstrated in a provided photo. ⬇️

adjustment spot is under the neck piece

the folds are at area typically concealed by the cassock

the folds are behind the outer galloon

One suggestion mentioned in a letter recommends leaving the bottom seam open for easier repairs, a practice not commonly found in mass-produced vestments. Since shrinkage typically affects the entire perimeter, it might seem logical to leave all outer seams unstitched. However, this could lead to the lining bunching up at the shoulders and the fabrics separating, which might be impractical to manage during services.

If the rest of the vestment is still in fair condition, tidying up the lining is worth the effort, whether through the help of parishioners, a professional workshop, or by applying your own DIY skills, irrespective of your level of experience with sewing. Ensuring your vestments continue to serve the Church, even if you've been provided with a new set, can greatly benefit visiting priests or could be a valuable donation to a new parish with limited resources.

We hope this guidance serves you well in resolving vestment care challenges.

May the Lord bless our readers with spiritual growth and fulfilment on their Lenten journey.