Choosing Cut and Fabric for Hot Weather

Following the joyful Easter period, the vast majority of the priesthood is going to face the yearly challenge of enduring the summer heat. While summer temperatures continue growing, not all people are able to bear heat easily under several layers of clothing. This causes many to look for ways to reduce negative effects when creating their summer wardrobe. In today's issue we will consider some nuances of dealing with high temperatures.

Father Sergius with his children at the Pentecost service. White undercassock +white vest.

Color

If you spend much time in the sun, you would probably need a undercassock that will not only be light in structure, but also of a lighter shade.

For indoor services, however, the fabric color is not so crucial - the indoor heat makes almost anyone sweat under any undercassock. This is especially true if you consume the Gifts and wash the Chalice after Liturgy with warm (hot in summer!) water.

It is worth bearing in mind that sweat stains are especially noticeable on black linen undercassocks as well as on grey ones with a high proportion of natural fibres. The characteristic stains on your back, armpits and other areas will hardly make you look more attractive in the eyes of your parishioners if you plan to interact with them after service. A light vest or better yet, a spare undercassocks can save the situation.

Black undercassocks made of mixed fabrics make sweat stains less noticeable, but the salt edges are more prominent on them once they dry. My personal experience shows that a short-sleeved shirt under a undercassock makes the latter last longer without washing. The salt does not appear as quickly, the moisture is better distributed, and it is generally comfortable enough to use.

Washing or changing a shirt is much easier than laundering a undercassock. However, these are individual choices that people make based on their personal experience.

Father Rodion (right) wears a shirt under his undercassock.

Undercassock Style

Russian undercassocks are good in cool weather since their collar covers the neck with a large overlap.

A collar of Greek undercassock looks festive and presentable with a shirt under it. The collar of the shirt can be a turn-down classic or band collar for the summer.

It is worth mentioning that some people find it improper to wear such a undercassock without a shirt, with a bare neck showing through the gap in the collar.

Both types have a common feature – two overlapping layers of fabric on the front creating an extra layer of insulation, which can be important for people sensitive to heat.

Consider the “Bulgarian” summer model of the undercassock from our catalogue: https://catalog.obitel-minsk.com/summer-undercassock-sh-01-1.html.

It has a closed neckband, but, unlike the Russian style, with a minimal overlap. The closed collar makes it quite possible to wear this undercassock without a shirt. In this case, however, the collar will be more susceptible to soiling, causing the need for frequent washing.

The collar height should be at least 4cm/1.57in. There is no overlap hence no extra layer of fabric. The undercassock is put on over the head.

According to our sewing workshop, this model is often ordered by corpulent clergymen. Compared with other models of this type, it does not cause as many surprises with undesired opening of its flaps.

The "Bulgarian" summer undercassock at our Catalogue

Here is a bit more personal experience: about ten years ago, I ordered a similar model from a private craftsman for hiking trips with young people, during which I intended to serve in churches along the trail.

It was made of non-creasing fabric (no ironing after backpacking), had no flaps (to conceal the camouflage pants), and a closed collar (no shirt needed to save space in the backpack).

I considered it my personal invention, because before that I had only seen this model with a Greek collar. I was wrong: it was invented a long time ago and presented as “Bulgarian” undercassock.

Fabrics

Sister Tatiana, whom we introduced in one of our previous issues, has shared with us information about popular summer fabrics based on the completed orders:

Many customers cannot wear synthetics and traditionally choose natural linen (marked as 100% Linen in the Catalogue), despite the fact that it creases heavily.

Viscose/linen blend (Rayon Viscose) has better creasing properties. Although it is available only in beige, this colour makes the described problem of sweat stains the least noticeable.

Shirt fabric (cotton with polyester) is marked as Cotton Blend in the Catalogue. It creases less than linen and is available in various traditional colours. It is breathable, durable and pleasant to the touch.

Staple Fabric (available in black and white) is similar in composition to the previous type, with a more airy structure. It is not as durable, but it is the lightest of all. One of our monastic customers from Puerto Rico (imagine the climate!) who wears a undercassock 24/7 only recognizes this fabric.

Thin polyviscose fabric (Light Rayon Viscose) is quite popular, being the most wear-resistant both in terms of colour and structure.

Surprisingly, modern synthetics can also be quite satisfying. Artificial silk (Silk Polyester) is popular among priests in Serbia due to its breathability. This fabric is light, thin, and easy to wash and dry.

Koshibo polyester is usually used for klobuks and inner rasons. However, some customers order cassocks made of this fabric. They explain their choice by the fact that, all other things being equal, these undercassocks have a very "representative look," which is important in some situations.

I would like to conclude by saying that choosing summer attire is, at large, a matter of individual choice and preference. We hope this OCC issue has been useful to you.

We wish you informed choices and thoughtful decisions, as well as incomparable Paschal joy and abundant blessings from the Lord with all the saints.